ADVENTURES — with Ursula Maxwell-Lewis
Extraordinary women, whether loved or loathed, have changed history. Rarely, if ever, have they been ignored.
Last month, one such extraordinary woman commanded my attention while exploring the Republic of Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way, which includes Achill Island.
Gráinne Ni Mháille, a.k.a. Grace O'Malley, was born in 1530. She married four times, gave birth to a daughter and three sons (the last delivered at sea, more about that later), died circa 1603, and history records her as a successful pirate, a fierce leader at sea, a landowner, leader of her family dynasty, and a shrewd politician.
Born into a notorious pirate clan, Grace's father, Eóghan Dudhdara Ó Máille, denied her the right to go to sea because she was a girl, plus her hair would tangle in the ship's ropes.
Eleven-year-old Grace retaliated by cutting her hair (earning her the nickname "Gránne Mhoal", Bald Grace), dressed as a boy, and defiantly hit the high seas. So began legends surrounding her which endure to this day.
Now known as Ireland's Pirate Queen, Grace, despite having an older brother to whom assets would normally have defaulted, became the active land and sea leader of the substantial O'Malley clan enterprises when her father died. A noted West Ireland piracy clan, the land assets reputedly included a 1,000 head of cattle and horses.
An era when family planning and women's rights were unheard of, legend has it that within an hour of giving birth at sea to her third son, Tiobóid, Algerian pirates ambushed and boarded her ship, the Sea Horse. Royal Museums Greenwich notes: "Wrapping the child in a blanket, she appeared on deck and rallied her crew, leading to the capture of the pirate vessel."
Grace married (among others) Donal O'Flaherty, heir to his family dynasty. When Donal was murdered by a rival clan, our heroine defeated his killers and repossessed his castle. In the interim, Grace had become active in Irish politics, as one might expect of any intelligent self-respecting pirate queen, and, thanks to Donal, became interested in painting. Versatile, to say the least.
After being captured and imprisoned by Sir Richard Bingham, appointed by the English to rule over Irish territories, Grace (56) narrowly escaped death. Diminished assets due to English rule, her confinement and the arrest of her brother and sons meant poverty loomed.
Undaunted, Grace obtained an audience with Queen Elizabeth I. The meeting was conducted in English. Grace spoke no Latin and Elizabeth no Irish. The English Queen granted the Irish Pirate Queen the release of her brothers and son providing they cease hostilities against the English. Grace agreed, however stolen clan lands were never returned. Considering the meeting useless, Grace and her family eventually supported Irish insurgents in battles against the English.
Research indicates that precious details about Grace's life are scant because she was a woman and records were generally kept by religious monks.
Grace's death is estimated to have occurred in 1603 in Rockfleet Castle. The O'Malley Tomb in Clare Island Abbey (12th century, rebuilt around 1460) where Grace learned to read and write is thought to be where she was buried.
Was Grace O'Malley a heroine, or a heartless pirate? History may still deliberate this, but her legend and legacy live on.
The O'Malley family motto was "Powerful by land and sea". Standing in the shadow of the Tower At Kildavnet, in the south-east corner of Achill Island at the mouth of Achill Sound overlooking the sound connecting stunning Clew Bay with Blacksod Bay, a sense of history and power is inevitable.
The 40-foot, three-storey structure—an example of a 15th-century Irish tower house (based on a Norman design copied by Gaelic Chiefs)—is thought to have been built by the O'Malley clan. To those of us endowed with overactive imaginations, a sense of watchful wariness emanates from the imposing stone structure. Achill lifeboat station stands guard nearby.
There's also an adjacent graveyard I'd like to have had time to explore. Medieval and 18th-century graves and gravestones are always insightfully fascinating reads, in my opinion.
Like many women in history, Gráinne Ni Mháille, Ireland's pirate queen, and Queen Elizabeth I, were products of their environments and eras. They also circumvented, and overcame, male-dominated rules and regulations imposed on them.
Determinedly, often unwittingly, the larger-than-life gals made their mark on history. We're still fascinated and encouraged by them. So, when you visit the Island of Ireland (and you really should!), look for tales like this reflecting courage, independence and lesser known stories about those who changed their worlds, and eventually impacted ours.
My Wild Atlantic Way itinerary through Mayo, Sligo and Donegal was planned for me by TourismIreland.com in Canada and FáilteIreland.ie in Dublin. Conor Ellard, historian and genealogist, again proved how important a knowledgeable local guide is on any trip.
Ursula Maxwell-Lewis is the former owner/managing editor of the Cloverdale Reporter. Contact her at utravel@shaw.ca.
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*****
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